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- Granny square cardigan crochet pattern
Looking for your next crochet project? Why not try our free crochet pattern for a granny square cardigan – is so much fun to stitch and the perfect garment to add to your spring wardrobe.
Our free crochet pattern takes you through everything you need to make this stylish cardigan. It's simple and effective jacket with minimal shaping for a light, kimono feel.
The foundation of the piece is made up of 19 identical granny squares. You can brush up on how to crochet a granny square with our step-by-step video tutorial. There are so many brilliant granny square project ideas, once you've learned how to make them you'll be spoiled for choice!
We've used pastel coloured yarns with a pop of lilac, but you can change the colours to suit your personal style – just make sure to always choose DK weight yarns.
Happy stitching!
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Measurements
To fit chest: 81-86 (91-97: 102-107: 112 -117: 122-127)cm
Actual chest: 121 (131:141:151:161)cm
Full length (approximately): 52cm
Sleeve length 39cm
What you need
- Prima DK Acrylic Yarn in Oatmeal x 5 (6:7:8:9) 100g ball (A)
- Prima DK Acrylic Yarn in Pure White x 1 100g ball (B)
- Prima DK Acrylic Yarn in Iris x 1 100g ball (C)
- 4.5mm crochet hook
- 4 stitch markers
Tension
Each granny square measures 13cm x 13cm.
19 sts and 8 rows to 10cm square over treble crochet eyelet pattern using a 4.5mm hook.
Abbreviations
Blo back loop only; Ch chain; chsp chain space; cont continue; dc double crochet; dtr double treble crochet; htr half treble crochet; mm millimetre; patt pattern; rep repeat; RS right side; sl st slip stitch; st(s) stitch(es); tog together; tr treble crochet; WS wrong side; yo yarn over hook.
Check out our full glossary of crochet abbreviations.
Special abbreviations
Cluster stitch: *Yarn over, insert hook in the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops* 4 times (5 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.
Granny square cardigan crochet pattern
Using 4mm hook and A, ch4, sl st into furthest ch from hook to make a ring.
Round 1 (RS): Ch4 (counts as 1tr, 1ch), working into ring [1tr, 1ch] 11 times, sl st into 3rd ch of starting ch, fasten off A.
Round 2: Join B to any chsp, Ch3, *yo, insert the hook into the same chsp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops; rep from * twice more, (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 4 loops, [ch2, cluster stitch in next chsp] 11 times, 2ch, sl st into 3rd ch of starting ch, fasten off B.
Round 3: Join C to any ch2sp, ch2 (counts as htr), [1tr, 2dtr, 1tr, 1htr] in same ch2sp, [1htr, 1tr, 2dtr, 1tr, 1htr] in each ch2sp 11 times, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch, fasten off C.
Round 4: Join A inbetween of any 2dtr, ch3 (counts as 1tr), 1tr in same space, *[ch3, 1dc inbetween next 2dtr] twice, ch3, [2tr, 2ch, 2tr] inbetween next 2dtr; rep from * twice more, [ch3, 1dc inbetween next 2dtr] twice, ch3, [2tr, 2ch] inbetween beginning 2dtr, sl st into 3rd ch of starting ch.
Round 5: Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr, *[3tr in ch3sp, 1tr in dc] twice, 3tr in ch3sp, 2tr, [2tr, ch2, 2tr] in ch2sp; rep from * twice more, [3tr in ch3sp, 1tr in dc] twice, 3tr in ch3sp, 2tr, [2tr, ch2] in ch2sp, 2tr, sl st into 3rd ch of starting ch, fasten off A.
(19 sts each side)
Round 6: Join B to any corner chsp, ch1 (counts as dc), 1dc in same chsp, *dc to next chsp, [2dc, 1ch, 2dc] in chsp; rep from * twice more. Dc to next chsp, [2dc, 1ch] in chsp, sl st into turning ch, fasten off. (23 sts each side)
Back and front (worked together)
(Join squares with WS facing each other, dc across one edge in B to join together)
Join a 1x9 strip of squares.
Join a 1x4 strip of squares.
Join the 1x4 strip of squares to the side edge of the 5th square in the 1x9 strip, making a T shape.
Left side
Using 4mm hook and A, with RS facing, join yarn to corner chsp on the outside edge of T shape to work along 8 square edges, (using diagram for guidance) [ch3, 1tr] in chsp, 1tr in each st and chsp to end of strip, working along 8 square edges. (201 sts)
Row 1 (WS): ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), miss 2 sts, *1tr, 1ch, miss next st; rep from * to last st, 1tr in turning ch.
Row 2 (RS): Ch3, miss first st, tr in each tr and chsp to end, working final tr in turning ch.
These 2 rows set eyelet patt.
Cont in patt for a further 16 (18:20:22:24) rows. On last row, place a marker on the 101st stitch to mark the shoulder point.
Fasten off. **
Right side
Using 4mm hook and A, with RS facing, working along other outside edge of T shape, beginning at corner chsp to work along 8 square edges (using diagram for guidance), [ch3, 1tr] in chsp, 1tr in each st and chsp to end of strip, working along 8 square edges. (201 sts)
Work the same as for Left side to **.
Front edging
Using 4mm hook and A, with RS facing, working along other inside edge, beginning at right side corner chsp to work along 9 square edge (using diagram for guidance), ch1, 1dc blo in each st and chsp to end of strip, working along all 9 squares. (225 sts)
Fasten off.
Sleeves (make 2 alike)
(Join squares with WS facing each other, dc across one edge in B to join together)
Join a 1x3 strip of squares.
Side edge panel (work either side of centre sleeve strip)
Using 4mm hook and A, with RS facing, join yarn to corner chsp on either 3 square strip, ch3 in chsp, 1tr in each st and chsp to end of strip, working along all 3 squares. (75sts)
Row 1 (WS): ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), miss 2 sts, *1tr, 1ch, miss next st; rep from * to last st, 1tr in turning ch.
Row 2 (RS): Ch3, miss first st, tr in each tr and chsp to end, working final tr in turning ch.
These 2 rows set eyelet patt.
Cont in patt for a further 10 (12:14:16:18) rows.
Fasten off.
To make up
Measure 23 (25:28:30:33)cm either side of shoulder marker on both sides and place a marker, sew sleeves in position between markers. Join side and sleeve seams.
Weave in ends and block to given measurements.
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